We didn't sleep well because of mosquitoes in the room. Or I should reword that. I kept Ken awake because of mosquitoes in the room. They like me but not him.
We went to Cafe San Giorgio for overpriced cappuccinos. The place is famous for its position in the village and slews of famous people who have imbibed there so they charge 3X more for coffee. We bought some Vino di Mandorla (Sicilian almond wine) as gifts. It is sweet and drunk cold. They didn't have any morning pastries so we hit the road hungry - the first time we felt hunger since arriving in Sicily. Right before leaving, we walked up to a 13th century castle with dramatic views of the surrounding hills and Mount Etna.
etna erupted 1 month later
Today we leave the main island and go to the Aeolian Islands...
My great-grandmother Giovanna Li Donni, who I was lucky enough to know until I was 18, was from Messina. The family also had a house on Lipari, the largest of the Aeolian Islands. Most of the family emigrated to New York in the early 20th century, but her sister Anna remained. The house on Lipari stayed in the family and is used to this day as a summer house by my distant cousins. I was in contact via email with one of these cousins for information on the location of the house so I could see it and I was waiting for a response.
It took under 2 hours to get to Milazzo, the ferry port for the islands. It was difficult to figure out the ferries and where to keep the car. We found an information point and got the info for where to buy ferry tickets and the where to park the car for 3 days. Garage al Mylarum Due parking lot was covered, secure, and near the ticket agencies.
on the ferry to lipari
The ferry to Lipari was 2 hours and the hydrofoil was 1 hour and twice the price. We wanted to take the ferry but the ticket office was closed for the day so we had to take the hydrofoil. The rash on my hands has gotten worse. It burns and is painful when anything comes in contact with it. My right hand is much worse from my left and it is red and covered in small bumps. I wanted to cry on the boat from frustration because I had been looking forward to this moment for so long and I was in distracting pain.
A really nice Sicilian guy picked us up at the ferry port to bring us to the hotel, Villa Enrica. He helped us with booking ferry tours which was very convenient. The hotel is about a 15 minute nice walk along the sea to the main town. It is on a hill and so the views of Lipari town are incredible.
Lipari town was touristy but not as much as Taormina. As I was walking the streets I wondered how much it had changed since my great grandmother walked them. Electricity and running water are two changes that came to mind! We walked the length of the town and took a lot of pictures. We got a doughy snack stuffed with cheese onion and anchovy. We stopped for wine and a bruschetta topped with local capers at a Enoteca Essepiu right on the main street.
a tipple on the main drag
My hands really flared up and were on fire. We went to a pharmacy and I was able to communicate enough by showing my rash and saying "Una pianta!" and I showed them the cream I got from the pharmacy in Noto. They gave me something stronger and said there's not much I can do about it and that I'd just have to ride it out.
Lipari has an archaeological park and museum. The museum was already closed for the day but the park was open. Well at least we thought it was. Not long after entering we were asked to leave but just after I got this picture of sarchophagi from the Greek-Roman era.
My mother remembers my great grandmother periodically sending money donations to a church called St. Bartholomew. Turns out it he is the island's patron saint and the cathedral is named for him. A huge stone staircase leads to its front door.
The walk back to the hotel is uphill and took about 20 minutes. On the walk, I noticed a small pier off the beach with the name "Li Donni" and I thought, could the house be one of these at the sea?
on the ferry to lipari
The ferry to Lipari was 2 hours and the hydrofoil was 1 hour and twice the price. We wanted to take the ferry but the ticket office was closed for the day so we had to take the hydrofoil. The rash on my hands has gotten worse. It burns and is painful when anything comes in contact with it. My right hand is much worse from my left and it is red and covered in small bumps. I wanted to cry on the boat from frustration because I had been looking forward to this moment for so long and I was in distracting pain.
A really nice Sicilian guy picked us up at the ferry port to bring us to the hotel, Villa Enrica. He helped us with booking ferry tours which was very convenient. The hotel is about a 15 minute nice walk along the sea to the main town. It is on a hill and so the views of Lipari town are incredible.
feeling the liparian vibe
Lipari town was touristy but not as much as Taormina. As I was walking the streets I wondered how much it had changed since my great grandmother walked them. Electricity and running water are two changes that came to mind! We walked the length of the town and took a lot of pictures. We got a doughy snack stuffed with cheese onion and anchovy. We stopped for wine and a bruschetta topped with local capers at a Enoteca Essepiu right on the main street.
a tipple on the main drag
My hands really flared up and were on fire. We went to a pharmacy and I was able to communicate enough by showing my rash and saying "Una pianta!" and I showed them the cream I got from the pharmacy in Noto. They gave me something stronger and said there's not much I can do about it and that I'd just have to ride it out.
magic hour in the archaeological park
Lipari has an archaeological park and museum. The museum was already closed for the day but the park was open. Well at least we thought it was. Not long after entering we were asked to leave but just after I got this picture of sarchophagi from the Greek-Roman era.
My mother remembers my great grandmother periodically sending money donations to a church called St. Bartholomew. Turns out it he is the island's patron saint and the cathedral is named for him. A huge stone staircase leads to its front door.
the stairs up to the duomo
my great grandmother named one of her sons bartolomeo
Before dinner we went to an internet cafe so I could check if my Italian cousin emailed me the family's house address. Nothing yet. We had dinner at Osteria Mediterranea. The food was great and had a nice atmosphere. We had bucatini con le sarde, loaded with fennel fronds. For dessert we had a sweet cassata.The walk back to the hotel is uphill and took about 20 minutes. On the walk, I noticed a small pier off the beach with the name "Li Donni" and I thought, could the house be one of these at the sea?
The friendly hotel cat made friends with us and hung out outside our door while we got ready for bed. She tried to sneak in our room.
cats rule
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