Day 13 • Lipari, Salina, Vulcano



So tired today...
After 2 cappuccinos and an espresso at breakfast we hopped on a 10am boat to Salina that passes the other side of Lipari with a small stop in Vulcano.


our shipmates

After yesterday's experience we thought it a good idea to bring some food so we got these incredible sandwiches from a shop near the marina. One with tuna, olives, and spicy cheese and the other with anchovies, cheese, tomato and hot oil. Sicily in a sandwich!

The boat passed abandoned pumice stone quarries on the other side of Lipari and stopped in ocean grottoes. The water was an incredible green blue and filled with jellyfish.


swimmers at an abandoned pumice quarry

The boat made 3 stops around Salina. At the first stop we walked up to a restaurant with an incredible view and had espressos. After we walked around the area but soon we had to be back on the boat.



a view with a side of caffeine



weather beaten house on salina

At the second port we walked up a hill for a view of the sea and the other islands. Salina is lush and fertile with beautiful green mountains, caper bushes and Malvasia vineyards.




ken is usually ahead of me



but i am not far behind



a scene from the walk

We sat on a boardwalk in the shade and people watched while we ate sandwiches. Before getting back on the boat we went to the water. This beach had black sand but it was coarser then Stromboli's. I grew up at the Atlantic Ocean, which is murky green. Nothing like this water, clear like a bath.


the black sand makes my feet look like a ghost's



small black sand beach



painted fishing boats


The boat made one more stop. We were tired from being in the sun so we chilled out in the shade, listening to the waves lapping the shore. Today and yesterday, we didn't see any fellow passengers once we disembarked on an island. I think some were prepared for serious trekking while others laid on the beaches.


very near our shady spot

The boat made a drop off at Vulcano. As you approach it, you can smell the sulfur mud baths. We learned that serious trekkers hike on Vulcano. The boat was picking up people who were not with our party. They were hikers in full hiking gear with walking poles.


the crater of vulcano

Before returning to the marina on Lipari we went around some more gorgeous grottoes. Overall the island hopping was a great experience. I only wish we had maps and information of the highlights of each island. Regardless, it did not take away from their beauty and serenity.


not sure what it is but i like it

On the walk back to the hotel we picked up a couple of Nastro Azzurros and two mini cannolis from a famous pasticceria Subba 1930 di Carmela Baiamonte. I never liked cannois until coming to Sicily. I'll have to give them another chance in NYC.


ken just off the boat

I got an email from my distant cousin, Alessio with the address of the family house. We asked the guy at the front desk if he knew the street and turned out we walked on it every day when we left the hotel to get to town! Via Francesco Crispi. Which is where I saw the Li Donni pier sign.


via francesco crispi

We walked down to see it to take photos because tomorrow morning we leave. I did not see a house with the number Alessio gave me and as I was looking at mailboxes and doorways, a woman pulled up in her car and started unloading groceries. She asked me essentially if she could help me but she didn't speak any English. I tried to tell her the situation and she knew the Li Donni family and pointed to the general direction of the house but I could not understand which one. So I took pictures of the block and I though I'd email Alessio and he could tell me which it was. It was very exciting for me to see the house where my great grandmother spent summers before emigrating to New York in 1916.


the family summer house

It was siesta time for us. After a nap and shower we had some beer on our terrace with a night view of the lights of Lipari.

We had dinner reservations at the Kasbah Cafe for 9:15. The hotel has a deal with them and for a 17 euro 3 course meal. The decor is North African inspired but the food Sicilian with a heavy slant on seafood, of course. We sat outside in a beautiful romantically garden. The food was excellent. Ken's 3 courses were: gnocchi with tomato and eggplant / swordfish aeoliana (tomatoes, capers, olives) / bianco e branco (white chocolate and lemon tart) I got: spaghetti alla chitarra with baby shrimp / tuna strak in agro dolce / chocolate tart with pistachio sauce.
It was a very special meal. The setting, the company, and the last night in Lipari.


a terrible picture of the Kasbah Cafe dinner terrace

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